After four seasons of traveling around in Indonesia, this year I ́ve decided to spend the season in Canggu and not travel around as much as I used too. There ́s good surf around here and all over Bali and I love it. I know, being from Germany, for me it ́s safe to say, the waves are always better than back home, but the funny reactions I got to my recent Insta- Story of me and a couple friends surfing at Kuta Beach really got me thinking about how ‚good waves‘ can be defined.
Apparently there are many people who do not like Kuta Beach and put it down as a shit surf break owned exclusively by kooks and beginners.
Here are just a few quotes of the messages I got to start off this topic:
“What??? Why Kuta Beach?”
“haha you surf at Kuta?”
“Kuta? Why do you not surf Ulus?”
“Are you beginner still?”
I could go on. But long story short… Everyone asked the same question:
WHY KUTA BEACH?
First of all, the question should not be, “Why‘ Kuta Beach?” Rather‚ “Why not Kuta Beach?”
Sure it once was an empty beach when Californian Surfer Bob Koke moved there from Hawaii in 1936. Sure some things have changed since then. Surely not the waves he came for though!
It ́s a beach break: shifting sandbanks, currents and rips, conditions that change pretty much every hour, from fat and slow to steep and hollow, there are close outs and long rides, barrels and playful walls. When you wipe out, you can ́t just paddle around the break, you ́ll have to make a few duck dives to get back out there. To surf good waves you ́ll have to choose the right ones, the ones that don ́t shut down on you but peel off right or left. This means you need to know how to read waves. Because other than at most reef breaks in Bali, the waves don´t break the same way all the time.
Considering you have to be able to adapt your surfing skills to the constantly changing conditions and actually combine them with your knowledge about the ocean – this is a perfect training ground.
You can try out new things like practicing steep take offs in closing waves without getting smashed on dry reef, you can learn how to speed pump through faster sections and practice bottom to top turns in peeling waves, and you can learn to control your board, maneuvering it through the crowd. To actually surf and catch good waves in Kuta, you need to know what you ́re doing aka, surfing without getting called or pushed into a wave by your local surf guide!
Read on the next page, why I choose to surf at Kuta Beach.
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