“those few seconds I experience riding a wave or being inside a barrel are the ones that give me the most joy. In this moment, you´re more focused on what´s happening around you than any other time. You listen to the sound of the wave, you read the wave and you try to understand what will happen next to be prepared. Waves are not just a movement in the water to me, they also make me move – and travel. The way surfing enhances the urge to travel, you get to know so many different places and cultures, different people and maybe even yourself a bit better. You sharpen your senses and your awareness for the world you live in. I think the sea empowers you to grow because it challenges you in a way you can´t experience on solid ground. I personally believe surfing is not only a sport, it´s a way of life. ” – Janine
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